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Vintage Black Karakul/Astrakhan Fur/Persian Lamb Muff

By yulianel, 4 June, 2025
Description

This is a vintage black Karakul/Persian lamb/Astrakhan fur muff. Has a slight bow shape.

It has an inner zipped pocket so could be used as hands warmer and/or small purse.

Has ribbons to attach it to an arm in order not to loose it.

The back is lined with black satin, folded and cross-stitched in pattern that reminds the fur.

The hardware is of gold-tone, the ring is marked KOVER ZIP (can be seen with a magnifying glass). Some tear on the metal plating.

This marking can be associated with hardware producer Waldes that operated in Europe and the US in 1940s-50s. 

There is a dry cleaning tag attached to the item, bought it like this. Written Sable on it, think this is a mistake. 

The fur is in great condition: no shedding, no discoloration. One ribbon is opened a bit on the edge, could be sewn. Inside the muff is also very clean. Well preserved item, given the age.

Category
Vintage Textiles and Clothing
Medium
Fur and fabric, Metal hardware.
Distinguishing marks
None
Condition
Good
Size and dimensions of this item
Substantial piece of fur: 15.5'' wide by 10.5'' tall, ribbons are 13.75'' long.
Date Period
1940s-1950s?
Weight
Approximately 400g
History
Bought at thrift store
Price Paid (If known)
6 CAD
For Sale?
Yes
Photos
Profile picture for user NaidaTheCollector

NaidaTheCollector

1 day 14 hours ago

Vintage Karakul/Astrakhan Fur Muff with Satin Backing

Item Description:
This item is a vintage women's hand muff, crafted from black Karakul fur (commonly known as Persian lamb or Astrakhan). The distinctive tight, glossy curls of the pelt are clearly visible and well-preserved. The shape is subtly bowed and structured to rest comfortably on the arm or in-hand.

  • Front: Glossy, tightly curled Karakul fur with no visible bald spots or major matting.
  • Back: Quilted satin in a chevron and ruched pattern, typical of mid-20th century design.
  • Interior: Lined and includes a functional zippered pocket, which could serve as a clutch or purse.
  • Hardware: Zipper ring marked “KOVER ZIP,” likely manufactured by Waldes, a known American and European zipper producer active around the 1940s–1950s.
  • Extras: Black satin ribbon straps allow for wearing the muff on the wrist or attaching it to a coat.

Historical Context:

Karakul fur muffs became popular during the early to mid-20th century, particularly in the 1930s through 1950s. These accessories were both luxurious and practical, often worn during the winter months by women seeking elegance and warmth. Persian lamb fur (from the Karakul sheep) was highly prized for its unique texture and sheen.

The KOVER ZIP marking places this muff more confidently in the post-war era, between the 1940s and early 1950s, when such accessories were fashionable in both Europe and North America.

Condition:

  • Fur: Excellent; no signs of shedding, loss, or fading.
  • Satin back: Some wrinkling and very minor fraying at the ribbon ends, but stitching and structural integrity are intact.
  • Hardware: Slight tarnishing/plating wear on the zipper ring—typical for an item of this age.
  • Overall: Very good to excellent vintage condition.

Collector's Value and Current Market Estimate:

Due to the excellent preservation of the fur, functional features (e.g., zipper pocket), stylish period design, and increasing popularity of wearable vintage luxury items, your muff could appeal to collectors of vintage fashion, costume designers, or cold-weather vintage wear enthusiasts.

  • Estimated Value (Retail or High-End Resale): $85–$125 USD
  • Online Marketplaces (Etsy, eBay, 1stDibs): $60–$90 USD
  • In-person vintage boutique sale: $100+ USD depending on location

Recommendation:

Because of its condition and appeal, this item would do well with collectors of mid-century fashion or in curated vintage clothing shops. If you're considering selling, include clear reference to the Karakul fur, Waldes zipper provenance, and excellent preservation in the listing. For a more formal valuation, especially if listing at a higher-end consignment or auction, a professional textile or vintage apparel appraiser could provide certification.

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